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With all resin models there is a small amount of preparation before painting can begin. For this you will need a few essential tools, glue and equipment to get you started.
Whether you have a dedicated room or are a kitchen table evening painter, you need to get comfortable. Painting figures does require many hours of sitting in the same position, so make sure your chair and table are the right height for you.
I recommend that you do not use a normal tungsten bulb as they cast a yellow light, but use a blue daylight hobby bulb. This gives a consistent bright colour balance over the whole table.
This is the most important tool on your desk. You’ll need a knife with interchangeable blades as they dull quickly. My workhorse is the Swann & Morton scalpel with an extra wide handle. Another useful knife is an X-acto style, with interchangeable blades.
Side cutters and tweezers
What you are looking for, are the outside edge of the blades to be flush, producing a cleaner cut. These are good for snipping off unwanted resin parts.
Tweezers are handy for picking up and gluing small parts together.
Pin vice, drill bits and wire
Using a wire pin in a possible weak point of the model is the best way to strengthen the resin part. I use a 1mm drill bit with 0.9mm brass wire, which is available from any good hobby outlet.
If you are not sure of the exact position the figure will be in and you need some flexibility with the lines aligning correctly, use 1mm wire as usual for the pin and drill a 1.5 / 2mm hole the other end. The join will still be as strong and you have some movement for the final position.
This is really the best way to glue multi-part resin models together; combine this with flash-tac/rapid cure accelerator which dries the glue in seconds. For precision gluing, I use an old plastic blister pack and different grades of wire and skewers.
No-one needs knife marks in the kitchen table.
With a multi-part miniature such as this, the resin pieces have shrunk at slightly different rates causing small gaps, this is normal with resin production and can be resolved with a little filling, and for this you will need a few different shaped tools and putty.
Preparing the miniatures
As part of the production process, the silicon mould which the resin is poured into has release agents in it, which are sometimes transferred onto the miniature. It is recommended that you wash the miniatures in warm, soapy water and they are completely dry, before starting any modelling.
All of these images are taken as I construct Orcus. Each stage is in order of how to build the miniature.
Side cutters are good at removing the larger feeds from the sprue. For the smaller feeds, I clip around the part and carefully cut the smaller feeds off with a sharp blade. Experience has showed me that there is a chance the clippers will snap any fine parts in the wrong place, as the resin flexes while clipping it.
To remove the mould-line from around the miniature, it is recommended to use a scalpel with a fresh blade
This is an example from another model, but it can happen to any thin parts like a spear shaft or sword blade, have a tendency to warp in the moulding process as the vacuum is turned on. To fix this apply gentle heat from a hairdryer along the whole piece and the resin will move back to its original shape, molecular memory is a cool thing.
All the parts for Orcus have now been cleaned up with a scalpel and wet & dry paper, ready for the next process.
As this is a large model, I recommend gluing the skull throne together and painting it as a separate part.
Around the bottom of the throne is a small gap which will need filling with putty, rolling it into small ‘rats-tails’ and applying it in small sections is the easiest way to fill any gaps.
I am keeping the wings separate with their own temporary stand, as these are highly detailed and would be difficult to paint, glued in position. I did not do this and found it very difficult to get the paintbrush close to the body.
Avoiding the front face of the fitting, I have drilled a 2mm hole the same diameter as the brass rod for a secure fit and attached to a cork, or something similar. This part is now ready for the primer.
It is recommended to attach the main body to a base of some kind so you can hold it easily while painting and is a solid platform to work from.
The upper body fits inside the belt to hide the join-line and the arms are glued in place. The arm fittings are locked into the correct position.
The separate jaw part gives you the choice of having the mouth open or closed. The horns are attached afterwards.
So you can see the position of all the parts together, I have built Orcus as a complete kit.