With all resin models there is a small amount of preparation before painting can begin. For this you will need a few essential tools, glue and equipment to get you started.

Whether you have a dedicated room or are a kitchen table evening painter, you need to get comfortable. Painting figures does require many hours of sitting in the same position, so make sure your chair and table are the right height for you.


Lighting

I recommend that you do not use a normal tungsten bulb as they cast a yellow light, but use a blue daylight hobby bulb. This gives a consistent bright colour balance over the whole table.


Hobby knife

This is the most important tool on your desk. You’ll need a knife with interchangeable blades as they dull quickly. My workhorse is the Swann & Morton scalpel with an extra wide handle. Another useful knife is an X-acto style, with interchangeable blades.


Side cutters and tweezers

  

What you are looking for, are the outside edge of the blades to be flush, producing a cleaner cut. These are good for snipping off unwanted resin parts.

Tweezers are handy for picking up and gluing small parts together.


Pin vice, drill bits and wire

Using a wire pin in a possible weak point of the model is the best way to strengthen the resin part. I use a 1mm drill bit with 0.9mm brass wire, which is available from any good hobby outlet.


Top Tip

If you are not sure of the exact position the figure will be in and you need some flexibility, use 1mm wire as usual for the pin and drill a 1.5 / 2mm hole the other end. The join will still be as strong and you have some movement for the final position.


Superglue


This is really the best way to glue multi-part resin models together; combine this with flash-tac/rapid cure accelerator which dries the glue in seconds. For precision gluing, I use an old plastic blister pack and different grades of wire and skewers.


Cutting mat

No-one needs knife marks in the kitchen table.


Preparing miniatures for painting

As part of the production process, the silicon mould which the resin is poured into has release agents in it, which are sometimes transferred onto the miniature. It is recommended that you wash the miniatures in warm, soapy water and they are completely dry, before any cleaning up or spraying with primer.


Cleaning up the miniature

Unfortunately, split-lines and feeds on the model are also part of the moulding process. They will normally follow the direction of the labelled ‘runner’ under the miniature’s feet and around the miniature. I scrape this excess off with a scalpel and finish with a fine grade file.



If there are any parts that are warped e.g. a sword blade, gently heat with a hairdryer. This will cause the resin to move back to its original shape and leave it to cool.

 


Knox



With all the parts washed and cleaned up, he is ready to be built.

If you start by attaching the base to the main figure, this gives you a solid platform to work from. If you need extra strength, I recommend pinning the foot without the peg on to the base.



The Great Axe with hand has male / female fittings ready for the glue. The position of the axe is up to you, I recommend having it slightly off vertical, as this looks more natural.



The shoulder pads are attached in-line with his arms. These pads are duplicates, so there is no left or right.



Celeste



While cleaning Celeste I was a little over keen with the clippers and removed some of the base edge, bad for me and good for you, as I can demonstrate filling edges with putty!



To achieve a sharp edge I have used Tamiya putty, as this dries in 30 minutes and can be sanded smooth.

 


The hole in the far right image is a previous air bubble which was filled with superglue and then sanded. This would not work on the base edge, only on holes, as  superglue would move around, creating more mess and clean-up time.

 


As with Knox and all single figures that are only a few parts, if you start by attaching the base to the main figure, this gives you a solid surface to work from. If you need extra strength, I recommend pinning the foot without the peg on to the base.



If you want the Holy symbol to be in a different position, you can gently heat the chain up with a hairdryer or warm water bath and move it where you like.


Makos



Once he is attached to the base, I can move on to his tail and arm.



The tail position is flexible; I have glued it so it follows the line under the cloak.



The next part to glue is the magical staff. There is an angled fitting under the cloak so it locks into position.


Xuna



Since she is running on one foot, I recommend that you use Rapid Cure to fix her to the base.




The dagger arm positon is flexible and is the last part to finish the set.