With all resin models there is a small amount of preparation before painting can begin. For this you will need a few essential tools, glue and equipment to get you started.

Whether you have a dedicated room or are a kitchen table evening painter, you need to get comfortable. Painting figures does require many hours of sitting in the same position, so make sure your chair and table are the right height for you.


Lighting

I recommend that you do not use a normal tungsten bulb as they cast a yellow light, but use a blue daylight hobby bulb. This gives a consistent bright colour balance over the whole table.


Hobby knife

This is the most important tool on your desk. You’ll need a knife with interchangeable blades as they dull quickly. My workhorse is the Swann & Morton scalpel with an extra wide handle. Another useful knife is an X-acto style, with interchangeable blades.


Side cutters and tweezers

What you are looking for, are the outside edge of the blades to be flush, producing a cleaner cut. These are good for snipping off unwanted resin parts.

Tweezers are handy for picking up and gluing small parts together.

 

Superglue


This is really the best way to glue multi-part resin models together; combine this with flash-tac/rapid cure accelerator which dries the glue in seconds. For precision gluing, I use an old plastic blister pack and different grades of wire and skewers.


Cutting mat

No-one needs knife marks in the kitchen table.


Gap Filling


With a multi-part miniature such as this, the resin pieces have shrunk at slightly different rates causing small gaps, this is normal with resin production and can be resolved with a little filling, and for this you will need a few different shaped tools and putty.


Preparing the miniatures

As part of the production process, the silicon mould which the resin is poured into has release agents in it, which are sometimes transferred onto the miniature. It is recommended that you wash the miniatures in warm, soapy water and they are completely dry, before starting any modelling.

All of these images are taken as I construct Marlos and the Earth Priest. Each stage is in order of how to build the miniatures.


 

Side cutters are good at removing the larger feeds from the sprue. For the smaller feeds, I clip around the part and carefully cut the smaller feeds off with a sharp blade. Experience has showed me that there is a chance the clippers will snap any fine parts in the wrong place, as the resin flexes while clipping it.

To remove the mould-line from around the miniature, it is recommended to use a scalpel with a fresh blade.


Warped parts

This is an example from another model, but it can happen to any thin parts like a spear shaft or sword blade, have a tendency to warp in the moulding process as the vacuum is turned on. To fix this apply gentle heat from a hairdryer along the whole piece and the resin will move back to its original shape, molecular memory is a cool thing.




Construction



All the parts for the Earth Priest have now been cleaned up with a scalpel and wet & dry paper, ready for gluing.



If you have a look underneath the bowl you will see a triangular fitting, which sets the position on top of the rock plinth. This is important as it provides the point where he is pouring the sand from his hand.



The arms are attached next.



 

Dry-fitting the parts are important, as it highlights issues like this, where the resin has shrunk in the moulding process, which is normal.


 

Marlos Urnrayle



All the parts for the Marlos have now been cleaned up with a scalpel and wet & dry paper, ready for gluing.



I have glued him to the base for a solid platform to work from.


Snake hair



In order for the parts to cast, the hair had to be organically split in half. Starting with the right side attached to the skull.



Then the left half of the snakes is glued in place.


Putty



The putty is mixed in equal parts and rolled out to from ‘rats-tails’. From here you have more control where you place the putty and the amount used.



Both miniatures are now ready for a coat of primer and painted.