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Zuggtmoy assembly guide
With all resin models there is a small amount of preparation before painting can begin. For this you will need a few essential tools, glue and equipment to get you started.
Whether you have a dedicated room or are a kitchen table evening painter, you need to get comfortable. Painting figures does require many hours of sitting in the same position, so make sure your chair and table are the right height for you.
I recommend that you do not use a normal tungsten bulb as they cast a yellow light, but use a blue daylight hobby bulb. This gives a consistent bright colour balance over the whole table.
This is the most important tool on your desk. You’ll need a knife with interchangeable blades as they dull quickly. My workhorse is the Swann & Morton scalpel with an extra wide handle. Another useful knife is an X-acto style, with interchangeable blades.
Side cutters and tweezers
What you are looking for, are the outside edge of the blades to be flush, producing a cleaner cut. These are good for snipping off unwanted resin parts.
Tweezers are handy for picking up and gluing small parts together.
This is really the best way to glue multi-part resin models together; combine this with flash-tac/rapid cure accelerator which dries the glue in seconds. For precision gluing, I use an old plastic blister pack and different grades of wire and skewers.
No-one needs knife marks in the kitchen table.
With a multi-part miniature such as this, the resin pieces have shrunk at slightly different rates causing small gaps, this is normal with resin production and can be resolved with a little filling, and for this you will need a few different shaped tools and putty.
Preparing the miniatures
As part of the production process, the silicon mould which the resin is poured into has release agents in it, which are sometimes transferred onto the miniature. It is recommended that you wash the miniatures in warm, soapy water and they are completely dry, before starting any modelling.
All of these images are taken as I construct Zuggtmoy. Each stage is in order of how to build the miniature.
Side cutters are good at removing the larger feeds from the sprue. For the smaller feeds, I clip around the part and carefully cut the smaller feeds off with a sharp blade. Experience has showed me that there is a chance the clippers will snap any fine parts in the wrong place, as the resin flexes while clipping it.
To remove the mould-line from around the miniature, it is recommended to use a scalpel with a fresh blade
The hands and the tentacles are very delicate parts and will snap easily. I recommend that they are removed very carefully from the sprue with only a scalpel, as anything heavy-handed such as clippers will cause the resin part to break.
To allow the long fingers to cast, the hands have feeds at the wrists. Careful carving will remove the feed and you are left with the fitting.
This is an example from another model, but it can happen to any thin parts like a spear shaft or sword blade, have a tendency to warp in the moulding process as the vacuum is turned on. To fix this apply gentle heat from a hairdryer along the whole piece and the resin will move back to its original shape, molecular memory is a cool thing.
Gluing the body to the base gives you a solid platform to build the rest of the miniature.
The arm parts slide into the body with the back ‘fungal cloak’ hiding some of the join. Dry-fitting is recommended before gluing permanently in place.
There might need some gap-filling at the elbows to hide the join.
Similar to the arm fittings, these will need to be carved back so the plug is showing.
The straighter tentacle has a fungus spore on the top of the fitting, take care when cleaning this part.
The finished Zuggtmoy ready for a coat of primer and paint.