With all resin models there is a small amount of preparation before painting can begin. For this you will need a few essential tools, glue and equipment to get you started.
Whether you have a dedicated room or are a kitchen table evening painter, you need to get comfortable. Painting figures does require many hours of sitting in the same position, so make sure your chair and table are the right height for you.
I recommend that you do not use a normal tungsten bulb as they cast a yellow light, but use a blue daylight hobby bulb. This gives a consistent bright colour balance over the whole table.
This is the most important tool on your desk. You’ll need a knife with interchangeable blades as they dull quickly. My workhorse is the Swann & Morton scalpel with an extra wide handle. Another useful knife is an X-acto style, with interchangeable blades.
Side cutters and tweezers
What you are looking for, are the outside edge of the blades to be flush, producing a cleaner cut. These are good for snipping off unwanted resin parts.
Tweezers are handy for picking up and gluing small parts together.
This is really the best way to glue multi-part resin models together; combine this with flash-tac/rapid cure accelerator which dries the glue in seconds. For precision gluing, I use an old plastic blister pack and different grades of wire and skewers.
No-one needs knife marks in the kitchen table.
With a multi-part miniature such as this, the resin pieces have shrunk at slightly different rates causing small gaps, this is normal with resin production and can be resolved with a little filling, and for this you will need a few different shaped tools and putty.
Preparing the miniatures
As part of the production process, the silicon mould which the resin is poured into has release agents in it, which are sometimes transferred onto the miniature. It is recommended that you wash the miniatures in warm, soapy water and they are completely dry, before starting any modelling.
All of these images are taken as I construct Gar Shatterkeel and the Priest. Each stage is in order of how to build the miniatures.
Side cutters are good at removing the larger feeds from the sprue. For the smaller feeds, I clip around the part and carefully cut the feeds off with a sharp blade. Experience has showed me that there is a chance the clippers will snap any fine parts in the wrong place, as the resin flexes while clipping it.
Bubbles and holes
Occasionally in the resin moulding process, holes or bubbles appear on the surface. To remove these easily, open the hole up so you can drip superglue inside and seal the glue with rapid cure and sand down the surface as normal.
First glue the arms to the body and then attach to the base. This gives you a solid platform to work from.
For smaller parts, I paint them separately. A simple brass pin into cork will provide a good handle.
Gar Shatterkeel assembly
Click here to view the painting guide of Gar Shatterkeel & Water Priest