With all resin models there is a small amount of preparation before painting can begin. For this you will need a few essential tools, glue and equipment to get you started.

Whether you have a dedicated room or are a kitchen table evening painter, you need to get comfortable. Painting figures does require many hours of sitting in the same position, so make sure your chair and table are the right height for you.


I recommend that you do not use a normal tungsten bulb as they cast a yellow light, but use a blue daylight hobby bulb. This gives a consistent bright colour balance over the whole table.

Hobby knife

This is the most important tool on your desk. You’ll need a knife with interchangeable blades as they dull quickly. My workhorse is the Swann & Morton scalpel with an extra wide handle. Another useful knife is an X-acto style, with interchangeable blades.

Side cutters and tweezers


What you are looking for, are the outside edge of the blades to be flush, producing a cleaner cut. These are good for snipping off unwanted resin parts.

Tweezers are handy for picking up and gluing small parts together.


Pin vice, drill bits and wire

Using a wire pin in a possible weak point of the model is the best way to strengthen the resin part. I use a 1mm drill bit with 0.9mm brass wire, which is available from any good hobby outlet.

Top Tip

If you are not sure of the exact position the figure will be in and you need some flexibility with the lines aligning correctly, use 1mm wire as usual for the pin and drill a 1.5 / 2mm hole the other end. The join will still be as strong and you have some movement for the final position.


This is really the best way to glue multi-part resin models together; combine this with flash-tac/rapid cure accelerator which dries the glue in seconds. For precision gluing, I use an old plastic blister pack and different grades of wire and skewers.

Cutting mat

No-one needs knife marks in the kitchen table.


Gap Filling


With a multi-part miniature such as this, the resin pieces have shrunk at slightly different rates causing small gaps, this is normal with resin production and can be resolved with a little filling, and for this you will need a few different shaped tools and putty.

Preparing the miniatures

As part of the production process, the silicon mould which the resin is poured into has release agents in it, which are sometimes transferred onto the miniature. It is recommended that you wash the miniatures in warm, soapy water and they are completely dry, before starting any modelling.

All of these images are taken as I construct Aerisi and the Priest. Each stage is in order of how to build the miniatures.


Side cutters are good at removing the larger feeds from the sprue. For the smaller feeds, I clip around the part and carefully cut the feeds off with a sharp blade. Experience has showed me that there is a chance the clippers will snap any fine parts in the wrong place, as the resin flexes while clipping it.

Warped parts

Thin parts like this spear shaft have a tendency to warp in the moulding process. To fix this apply gentle heat from a hairdryer along the whole piece and the resin will move back to its original shape.


All the parts for Aerisi have now been cleaned up with a scalpel and wet & dry paper, ready for the next process.

I am keeping the wings separate with their own temporary stand, as these are highly detailed and would be difficult to paint, glued in position.


Avoiding the fitting, I have drilled a 2mm hole the same diameter as the brass rod for a secure fit and attached to a cork. This part is now ready for the primer.

The arm and the fitting are very thin, so I would recommend pinning the parts together.

I have used 0.5mm brass wire with a 0.6mm drill bit.


For joins where you are not 100% sure of the pin location and you need some flexibility when attaching, I use a larger 1.5mm hole on the other part. Once filled with superglue, it will be as strong as a normal pin fitting.




The final part of this miniature to glue together is the back on her dress. This will require filling the gap with putty.

Air Cult Priest


Assembling the priest could not be easier. I have marked both parts with a pen, so I have the right position on the base without any re-adjustment.

Censer of controlling air elementals


This small jar has quite a complicated cloud pattern over it, so I have decided to paint it separately, pinning it and then using a cork as a holder is one of the easiest ways to do this.

All the parts are now ready for a coat of primer, then on to the painting. Click here for the painting guide..