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With so many parts to this monster, the resin pieces have shrunk at slightly different rates causing small gaps, this is normal with resin production and can be resolved with a little filling, and for this you will need a few tools and putty.


A sharp knife with a changeable blade is essential for cleaning any mould lines and flash; this is part of the production process and is unfortunately unavoidable. Using the blade sideways to scrape any imperfections is a quick way of smoothing curved surfaces.




Side cutters are another essential tool for removing the miniature from the mould sprue.




Two part epoxy putty ‘green stuff’ and sculpting tools are essential for filling gaps.



Superglue is the best glue for sticking resin parts together; combine this with rapid cure, which instantly cures the glue, this becomes an invaluable tool in any model build.


Construction

All of these images are taken from my work bench as I construct the Behir. Each stage is in order of how to build the creature.



The first process is to snip off any unwanted feeds and sprues from the parts and clean up any mould-lines.




These are all the parts of the Behir cleaned up and ready to begin the construction.


Starting with the base, the two rock parts are glued together and attached to the base.



The main body parts are then glued together, making sure that each part matches up. All of the parts can then be trimmed ready for any gap filling if necessary. It is recommended that you build the body up in sections, so for now keep them in their separate parts.



The next stage is to glue the lowest body part with the feet attached to the rock base. This provides a solid platform for the rest of the model.




For this kind of filling work with putty, there are two basic shapes that are useful; small spheres and ‘rats tails’ in various thicknesses. These long strands are laid over the gap and smoothed out.




At the same time the neck and the body were glued and filled, as they are not close to the rock face they will not interfere with another part.



The next stage is to attach the next body piece to the tail and feet locator points.





With this body piece in place, it gives you a good view of any other gaps that need filling.




With the neck parts now filled and dry, it now can be glued in place making sure that all the details like the back spine line-up. 






Moving onto the arms, the shoulder fittings are good, but I recommend that they are pinned in place for strength, as they do stick out from the model and are likely to take any damage first. For this you will need a pin vice, 1.5mm drill bit, 1mm drill bit and 0.9mm brass wire.



I have pinned the separate arms with a 1mm hole and 0.9mm brass wire for a snug fit and glued them in place, making sure the pin followed the same direction of the arm. A larger 1.5mm hole was then drilled into the shoulder. Having a larger hole allows you to make any final adjustments when gluing the parts without having to be pin-point accurate with the two drilled holes, there is nothing worse than causing more gaps when the pins do not match up.






The right arm is attached in place with a tiny amount of filling in the join. With very small areas like this, I use superglue instead of putty, applied with a wire for accuracy.




The head comes in three parts, which allowed us to add a lot more detail to the teeth and the horns. These parts are simply glued together and filled.







The back of the head has a ball-join fitting which allows you to pose the head in most positions. If you require a more extreme angle, carve a small piece of the back of the head.





The finished Behir ready for a coat of primer and paint.